The beaches of Normandy have been a top contennder on our list so off we went.
Naturally we flew to London first - our favorite stop - then chunnel to France and on to Bayeux.
Bayeux is right near the beaches, and a good place to stay while seeing all the sites in the area.
Bayeux is also the home of the Bayeux Tapestry - that extremely long embroidered account of William the Bastard invading and conquering England in 1066.
We chose to stay in Bayeux because it is fairly close to the coast and Normandy beaches. Plus it has quite a lot of history.
It was probably a trading area before the Romans founded a town here in the first century.
It is also home to The Bayeux Tapestry, that wonderful meters long depiction of William of Normandy invading and conquering England in 1066 at Hastings.
The town is just lovely and has many beautiful areas to walk, and of course, a huge Cahtedral. Hey, it's Europe!
The Hotel Lion D'Or - where we stayed.
The weather was nasty so not a nice time to sit outside
Shot from the hotel to the street
The Bayeux Tapestry. You can not take pictures in the museum so I downloaded a shot. The tapestry is very long.
One of the scenes. Hopefully this jogs your memory.
The Rvier Aure runs through the town.
It is quit serene
Even made George smile. A rarity for him in photos.
That's the old mill wheel down on the right.
Streets of Bayeux
Lots of little, narrow side streets
Loved this old deserted building now home to doves, pigeons and other birds
Very nice restaurant
An embroidery store. As you can guess, with the world's most famouse tapestry embroidery is a big thing in these areas
The Notre Dame Cathedral of Bayeux. Consecrated in 1077 to celebrate William the Conqueror's victory over England
Amazing blue windows
The twin steeples it is known for
I love buttresses. Amazing pieces of architecture.
Inside is very impressive, as I am sure it was meant to be.
The organ
Altar area
Beautiful artwork
And stained glass everywhere
I put this in just to show the rather narrow streets in Bayeux - the same narow streets are all around Normandy
Which explains our choice of rental car. Yes, even with our toy car some roads were pretty tight.
Today was our first D-Day Beach adventure. Utah Beach, St-Mere-Eglise and some other stops filled they day.
One thing that has always seemed odd to me watching all those WWII movies is how the paratroopers and soldiers couldn't figure out where they were. Well now I know.
Today many of the roads that existed then are still around, some paved but some not. These are narrow little roads running between farm fields that were often flooded by the Germans and lined on each side with hedgerows. You really can not see anything on either side of those hedgerows.
Just to give you an idea of how the fields looked I downloaded this. Today they look the same, minus the water
This road is boarded by hedgerows. Our guide is actually just 2 feet down and inside the shrub but you can't see him. Now I understand why troops had so much trouble
I'm starting with events that began in the wee hours when the paratroops landed and before the beach assault. The road to Le Fiere Bridge
Fields around Le Fiere Bridge, sight of a 3 day bloody battle. It had to be held to prevent Germans from moving reinforcements.
I always thought it was a big expansive bridge, but this is it. Hard to believe.
The farmhouse or manor near the bridge. Germans manned it, and Allies fought to gain it.
Monument to the troops who fought and died to hold the bridge
This is the church in the very little hamlet of Angoville-au-Plain. Here is where Army medics Bob Wright and Ken Moore treated wounded of both sides
Inside the church is lovely
Many of the pews are blood stained as the wounded waited to be treated
After the war stained glass windows included symbols of paratroopers
Now in St-Mere-Eglise.
Yes, this is the church around which so many died.
Looking down the path to St-Mere-Eglise
For tourist's sake they have a dummy paratrooper hanging from the steeple - The dummy is an omage to Pvt John Steele, played in The Longest Day by Red Buttons.-
In the film he is hanging from up here being deafened by the ringing bells
In reality, he was hung up just above that little door in the back of the church where he was eventually taken prisoner by the Germans.
Inside the church
You will notice here too are tributes to the paratroopers
Now down to the beach.
Today it looks nothing like it did then. Those dunes did not exist then. THe French Government constructed them to protect the farm fields in the area
Remains of a gun emplacement
A replica of a Higgins Boat - this one's metal instead of wood
Post war the resourceful French re-used these German beach obstructions for construction beams or any place metal was needed.
The beach
Monument to the Navy who also suffered losses during the landings.
Omaha - Gold Beach - Arramanches 05/11/2023
Day 2 of our D-Day tour and we head to Arromanches, the site of Gold Beach and the adjacent Omaha Beach. We arrived at low tied, and came back later in the day to see it at high tide.
We learned quite lot about German gun implacement, field of fire, and who went where and when.
Here is also what remains of the British Mulberry Harbor - that amazing piece of engineering that allowed the Allies to unload equipment and supply the troops.
Then on to Point du Hoc where the Rangers scaled the cliffs to roust the Germans from their bunkers.
Omaha Beach at low tide
Same place but now high tide. Makes it easy to understand why the landing had to happen at low tide
Low tide
Same area but at hIgh tide
A segment of the Mulberry Harbor
I downloaded this to give an idea of what it looked like when finished. Sunken ships provided a sea break and the piers were where ships docked to unload.
Yes, it all had to float and the sunken parts were all different length depending on how deep it was to bottom for that piece
Today this is about all that is left
Point du Hoc 05/11/2023
One of my favorite parts of The Longest Day is the Army Rangers scaling the cliff of Point du Hoc. Not sure why. Maybe I just admire rope work.
Anyway, it's hard to actually see many of the old gun implacements due to the overgrowth. Seems the "fun police" have fenced it all off and with no one tramping on the greass it's really covering everything.
With all the sheep and goats in the area you would think the preservation group would avail themselves of cheap yard workers.
We did learn very few bombs actually hit any targest here. Most of the destroyed gun emplacements was the demolition teams blowing them up after capture.
Those slabs of concrete can be seen in post-landing pics with US troops and a US flag - so they didn't get pounded by the navy
This was blown up by allied sappers not bombs
Not much beach and no cover
The cement is beginning to deteriorate
We also learned the French sabotaged the concrete when they were forced to make it for the Germans
They would add impurities or even urinate in it. Pretty brave under the circumstances
Inside the bunker looking out
THose holes are not from shrapnel. That is where the huge sighting apparatus was attached
Another place we have always wanted to visit. The beautiful Mont Saint-Michel. The story goest he archangel Michael appeared in 708 to Aubert of Avranches, the bishop of Avranches, and instructed him to build a church on the rocky islet.
There has been a church here ever since. Needless to say it has grown in size significantly since the 8th century.
You can no longer drive out to it, but park in the Disney Parking Lot and take the DIsney Trolly to the bridge. No, it's not really Disney but it felt like it.
The church and buildings are quite spectacular. Glad we went.
A glimpse of Mont Saint-Michel from the bus window
You get dropped off on this causeway - constructed so as not to impede the tides. Or you can walk from the parking lot to here.
And the beautiful Mont.
If you look closely at the base you will see the rock upon which the church/fort is constructed
Notice the walls that surround the lower part, and the turrets and towers.
From a rampart - a shot of the open beach at low tide.
It is amazing that the tide will cover all that sand in a few hours time.
The cloister
Notice the decoration on the arches. Specifically designed to look like a part of nature
The Refectory where the monks ate their 3 meals daily. The tall narrow windows were so they could see what they were eating yet stay huble
Winding stairs - just in case you worried we missed a set of winding stairs. Never gonna happen
The Guest Hall. Notice the huge fire places
Gargoyles. Have to have a shot of gargoyles
A lovely little gat into a garden
The Great Pillars Crypt. This was also used as a prison. Louis XI put hi enemies here, and The French Revolution imprisoned monks who would not denouce their faith
On a lighter note, the choir room is right above and this round hole was put in so you could hear the singisng.
Just a very nice high wall with pretty greenery
In 1820 this wheel was installed in what once was the Monks Ossuary. Prisoners would walk in it to bring up food and water
Now it is just a lovely piece of wooden art.
The Knight's Hall Scriptorium. Here is where the monks scribed books.
However when a king or important member of the Knightly Society of St Michael came they stayed here
Medieval Garden
Inside the Garden looking up at the Abbey
He was a poser. Seemed to want his picture taken
George - we are dueling cameras
I loved the shingles on this little window turret
Just a pretty door
We are on one of the ramparts enjoying a snack
Looking out to the sand and watching the tide slowly comeing in
In a part of the town looking back up to the Abbey
There is no place in Europe that does not have scaffolding. Keep telling our Financial Adviser to invest in it
Notice that little door at the top of that long shute
Well, that little open door leads to that big wheel in the ossuary. Long way donw
St. Michel sitting at the top of the spire keeping watch over the Abbey.
A bit north of Mont Saint-Michel is the Abbey de Hambye. It was founded in the 12th century, and like most churches has had numerous ups and downs.
Thankfully a couple purchased the monstic buildings in 1956 and in 1964 The abbey church, the gatehouse and the lay brothers’ building were bought by the County Council of la Manche.
A concentrated effort to restore and preserve this and other historic buildings was undertaken, mostly by young adults who worked and slept on-sight each summer learning the skills necessary to bring these amazing buildings back to life.
A typical gate house with the 2 doors.
Entering the outer court
The Abbey was also a victim of the French Revolution and it's secular vent. Over the years the building fell into disrepair and was quarried for it's stone and decorations
But it must have been absolutely grand in it's day.
The preserved out buildings
We think this is a water wheel
The cider press room
The kitchen
Stables
We found the ceiling most interesting
I don't know if the manicured garden was there originally but I suspect not
The chateau was built in the 14th century, and like most of these old estates it fell on hard times.
It was deserted, and in the 19th century local farmers used it to store fodder.
In the 1960's the same program that helped save Hambye Abbey saved the chateau. Young adults and teens worked tirelessly to clear away rubble, stabilize and rebuild.
Today it is also used as a site of various art programs and galas. When we were there it was getting prepped for a soiree of some sort.
The entrance
The cemetary
The Fairy Tower
The tale associated with The Fairy Tower
Yes, spiral stairs
Looking at The Round Tower from The Fairy Tower
Round Tower
Inside the Round Tower. It is believed it held guards.
Looking at The Fairy Tower from The Round Tower
More buildings
Inside the manor
THey painted a chari and sofa on the wall to give an idea of furnishings. Cute
We kept hearing this loud sound and when we went around the back we learned what it was
A guy on rope burning off the growth from the stones. He started up top and worked his way down. Clever
Dating to the 12th century it is one of the oldest Norman castles on the Cotentin penninsula. The draw bridge was replaced in the 17th century by a stone bridge, but you can still see the slots for the draw bridge.
Like Chateau Gratot, this too has a legend attached
When the Vikings were besieging the castle the Lord of Pirou and his family used magic to turn themselves into geese and fly away. Unfortunately the spell to reverse the curse was burned by the Vikings so the family remained geese. Since then geese return to the Cotentin each year on their migration in March.
After enjoying the chateaus we headed to Cherbourg to see The Redoutable, a decomissioned French nuclear submarine at The Cite de le Mer.
It took a few extra turns and some updated directions from Google Maps, but we finally got to the museum about 90 minutes before it was to close.
The submarine was just amazing. It took 2 years to remove it's reactor, replace it with a steel tube and fit out the sub for tourists - lots of padding on pipes and fixing tripping hazards, etc.
We were quite impressed and since it was just us and 2 other folks no chance of claustraphobia. YEAH!
After the sub we got to admire the display of small deep sea submersibles in the lobby. So many sizes and functions.
The Museum Cite de la Mer
The Redoubtable nuclear submarine
Yes, it is big.I am for a bit of scale.
Inside the sub.
As you can see that passage was a lot narrower once a person is standing in it
I was very impressed with all the cabeling & wiring.
Don't ask me what all these were for because I forgot
But there's a lot of electronics
What I liked were those brass comm tubes amid all that modern electronics
I do remember this as the control hub
An officers quarters
Admiral's lounge
And the brass mess
Kitchen
The French do coffee right. No drip system here,
Plumbing was really cool
Bathroom plumbing
Crew's quarters. A bit step down from officers for sure
Crew's mess area
The torpedo room and a torpedo - non lethal of course
They are really really big
Torpedo tube
Now back in the lobby area which has a large display of small submersibles
Honfleur - The Harbour & Lieutenants House 05/14/2023
We drove east to the lovely old port city of Honfleur. Picturesque is the best word for this harbor and the many attractions.
The Lieutenants House is an old stone building from around the 17th century. It housed the royal lieutenants, who controlled all inputs and outputs from the port
It was once part of the city gates and the wall that surrounded the city.
If the house and port look familiar it's probably because Monet and many other artists have found inspiration here.
The Lieutenant's House
It is a very nice museum today
The arch for the old gate is to the right
The gate is what is left of the old wall that surrounded the city
A view of the harbor from the upper level of The Lieutenant's house
Beautiful and various 15th and 16th centruy buildings
Honfleur - St. Leonard's & St. Cahterine Churches 05/14/2023
The Hundred Years' War - that period between the middle 1300s to the middle of the 1400's saw widespread devestation as England and France battled off and on for about 115 years over who could rule France.
Needless to say lots of destruction, and then lots of rebuilding.
These two churches were both destroyed by the English and then rebuilt during quieter times.
Each is so different from the other, but both are beautiful.
St. Leonard's Church. The one you see today was mainly constructed in the 15th and 16th century
St. Leonard is patron saint of prisoners, pregnant women, coal miners, horses and greengrocers to name a few.
Notice the fresco on the columns
These are unique I think
Magnificant organ of course
The altar, and the boats are here as well - seen in many churches associated with port towns
The back area
St. Catherines Spire - you can see it from just about everywhere
It was rebuilt by the Maritime workers using wood, what they were familiar with and less costly
But they did pay attention to detail. The bell tower is separate so if lightening hits it the church does not burn
The church
The interior feels more like a market than a church
But the wood is incredible
The organ
The altar is beautiful
And of course, ships.
Notice the detail in the wood above
Salt Warehouse & Jardin du Tripot 05/14/2023
Salt was taxed in France in days of yore, unless you were the clergy or nobility or another "special person". Salt theiving became a big problem so it was stored in huge stone warehouses easy to guard.
Leaving Salt and moving on to Nature, we have Tripot Garden. This gem sits in an unmarked area between 3 streets.
The river was probably a location for laundry and social gathering in late medieval times.
There was a mill on the river in the 16th century, then came tanneries and dyeworks.
By the 1950s the businesses all closed and the area fell into disuse and neglecte.
But in 2013, the mayor launched a rehabilitation project to transform this little alleyway into something special
The Salt Warehouses. Honfleur had 3 and only 2 remain. Salt was a huge commodity, especially for cod and herring preservation
Now it is often used for art displays and other fun activities
The ceiling is amazing
The Tripot Garden
Pieces of art throughout
And lovely flowers
More sculutre
I had to squat down to get a shot of the face.
An omage to the days when laundry was washed in this river
D-Day Museum , Cemetary & Driving Normandy 05/15/2023
We opted to do the museums on our own rather than take up time when we were with our guide, so today we drove back to Arromanches, site of Gold Beach.
The museum was completely redone and opened back to tourists in April of this year. They have done a great job of covering the various aspects of the landings, especially the Mulberry Bridges and Harbor - my personal favorites.
Yes, we did also stop at the American Cemetary for a brief visit and to pay respects.
On our way back to Bayeux I did some video of a little of the drive around Normandy so you could get a little bit of the feel of the roads and tiny hamlets that are found all over Normandy
The museum, taken on a day with sun
And the plaza out front of the museum today - yes it is raining, cold and windy
Gold Beach and the remnants of a Mulberry bridge
The temporary harbor is slowly being demolished but a little remains
The engineering and installation of these piers, casons and bridging was amazing.